October 2002

Bejing

by damonp on October 19, 2002

in Travel

Beijing, China
We stayed in Beijing for 8 days spending our first few days with a group of Swiss, British and Japanese travelers we met on the train from Mongolia and the final five with Swedes who finally made it to town.

Remember Eric, Sara and Linda who were kicked off the train leaving Russia? They were kept in a holding room until the train left the station and then kicked back out into the station for the night, where locals were waiting to change their money right there (at a greatly unfavorable rate). Had they not been held in limbo, they could have quickly changed their euros/dollars into rubles and gotten back on the train with the rest of us. Chalk another one up for the wonderful Russian tourist relations.

I think all we did was eat our way around Beijing. The first meal, we each ordered a plate of food (eight total), to the smiles and snickers of the very-little English speaking staff. If we had an extra four mouths to feed, I don’t think we could have eaten it all. Every meal was wonderful, and we became more and more bold ordering anything thing that ended with, in hot chili sauce. We didn’t have a chance to try any of the local delicacies like barbequed scorpions, whole baby chickens, snake (the Swedes had the snake one night before we hooked up with them and said it tastes like very fatty chicken). Our outing to the night market to try all of these was called off because of a sudden downpour (oh well).

We spent one day hiking the Great Wall and one day in the Forbidden City and the rest just wandering around. The wall hike was to an unrenovated part of the wall and proved to be quite a strenuous adventure climbing up and down over parts that had succumbed to the surrounding terrain. Had this been back home, I think our whole trek would have been declared off-limits because of the lack of safety.

See the pictures

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Mongolia

by damonp on October 7, 2002

in Travel

Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia
Exit one poor nation with angry cold people; enter a poorer nation with beautiful happy people. Ulaan Baatar is a post communist city with many similarities to Moscow: Sukhbataar Square just like Red Square, Sukhbataar’s tomb (Sukhbataar lead the revolt from China in the 1920’s with Russia’s help) just like Lenin’s tomb and large monolithic communist era buildings everywhere. However the Chinese and Buddhist influences have left many Chinese-styled pagodas and temples all around town.

From the train we immediately went out to our ger camp in the Terelj National Park, exchanging the dusty concrete city for the rolling green hills and mountains. My words can’t begin to improve the pictures of the countryside, so I’ll just give the link.

We rode horses in the mountains for two days and imagined what it was like to be a real cowboy back in the Wild West. Mongolians are notoriously excellent horsemen, learning to ride at three or four years. Their national festival (The Nadaam Fesitval) features these little tykes (closer to eight years old now) racing over a course of about 20km. Can you imagine an 8yo in America doing that? Though the tiny saddle did get a little uncomfortable after hours of riding, we had an immensely great time.

The city itself wasn’t spectacular but the people were very kind (even though I was nearly pick-pocketed twice by different groups of kids) and eager to practice their meager English. Ulaan Baatar is the staging area for expeditions to the Gobi. I don’t know how many bulletin board postings I saw from people putting together trips and needing an extra person or two to share the costs (like $10/day for everything on a 20-day trip).

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Trans-Siberian Moscow – Mongolia

6 October 2002

This is really long, so grab a cup of coffee if you really plan to finish it… (if not skip over the middle section) Departure from Moscow at 20:30 10/1. I was happy to see this city behind us. It’s hard for me to even verbalize Russia and Russians. In hindsight they take almost no [...]

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